The presence of the past is all around you, wherever you travel
across
Tasmania.
It's in the city buildings, their surfaces
chiselled by convict stonemasons, and in country cottages with
stone steps worn hollow by two centuries of welcomes.
Experience Tasmania's history as you wander among the gardens of
grand colonial homesteads. More than anywhere else in Australia,
the architectural fabric of the 19th century is not only well
preserved but is also part of everyday life.
Still standing
In Hobart, the sandstone warehouses that lined the New Wharf in
1833 now overlook the bustle and fun of Salamanca Market. In
Launceston, the ornate Victorian-era Albert Hall hosts rock
concerts, conventions and even the occasional public
demonstration.
Franklin Manor, in Strahan, is the rebuilt mansion of the local
harbour-master, that now houses an outstanding restaurant and
accommodation. Just about every country town has a scatter of
Georgian cottages that offer visitors a comfortable place to stay
in historic surrounds.
Grand country manors
Chief Executive Officer of the National Trust in Tasmania, Chris
Tassell, explains that a distinctive characteristic of Tasmanian
heritage architecture is the fact that many significant historic
buildings remain in their original cultural landscape.
An example is the superb National Trust property Clarendon, set on
the banks of the South Esk River at Nile near Evandale, south of
Launceston.
"Clarendon is arguably Australia's grandest colonial house," says
Chris. "It's an extraordinary and flamboyant statement of one man's
ambition and belief in his place in the life of the colony."
Clarendon is one of dozens of fine country mansions in the
northern midlands and is one of several open to the public. Many
remain in private hands and some are owned by descendants of
pioneers.
Entally Estate, just west of Launceston, is a meticulously
restored rural homestead built in 1819 by Thomas Haydock Reibey -
the son of Mary Reibey, who appears on the Australian $20
note.
Near Longford, Woolmers Estate and Brickendon offer a remarkably
authentic insight into 19th century life and have been in the
Archer family for generations. As well as the fine homestead,
Woolmers Estate has workers' cottages, a chapel, blacksmith's shop,
pump house and gardener's cottage. The National Rose Garden also
lies within its formal gardens.
Brickendon is a modern working farm but the Archers have also
established an historic farm to demonstrate how the estate operated
more than 150 years ago.
On Launceston's fringe, the National Trust's Franklin House is a
colonial mansion with its original stables and garden. Built by
convicts in 1838, the site housed a leading private school until
1866 and was the birthplace of the National Trust in Tasmania in
1960.
The convict trail
While these buildings exude charm, Tasmania's best-known heritage
location is much darker - the Port Arthur Historic Site. The
buildings here reflect the many layers of Port Arthur's history,
from its establishment as a penal colony around 1820 until its
closure in 1877, then later as the township of Carnarvon, renamed
in an attempt to erase the stain of the convict era.
Despite the ravages of bushfires and even attempts to demolish the
buildings, Port Arthur has retained its integrity. Skilled and
painstaking archaeological research and restoration is helping to
maintain and enhance what is one of the nation's most significant
historic sites.